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SUPPLIES • BERNINA® Needle Punch Accessory Set • Any of the following BERNINA® machines: activa, virtuosa, aurora, & artista models 165, 170, 630 • Haiku Two Jacket pattern from The Sewing Workshop •Wool fabric (coat weight or felted wool) • Jewel tone skein BY FAITH REYNOLDS Turn a simple wool jacket into a stunning fashion statement by creating a floral cascade along both sides of the front opening. The flowers are needle punched in bright colors and form the shape of the outer edges of the lapels. MACHINE SET-UP Note: Power to the machine should be OFF for the installation of the Needle Punch Accessory Set. • Drop the feed dog of the machine. • Remove the presser foot, needle, and stitch plate. • Remove needle holder thumb screw completely. • Remove the bobbin case. • Open the shuttle cover and remove hook race, then leave shuttle cover and bobbin door open. Put For visual instructions on using the BERNINA® Needle Punch Accessory Set, watch the instructional DVD included with the set. For more written information and inspiration, see Feet-ures, Volume 3 18 of variegated wool yarn – remove polyester threads wrapped around yarn, if applicable OR • "Pure Wool" - package of 6 solid single rounds and 2 multi-color double rounds of 100% Merino Wool Fleece all these parts in a small plastic bag for safekeep ing. Note: Consult your machine owner's manual to identify the parts, if needed. • Place the Needle Punch stitch plate (with the large hole) on the machine. • Mount the Needle Punch needle holder on the nee dle bar. Secure it in place using the fixing screw. • Attach the Needle Punch presser foot. • Turn the machine on - this will automatically center the needle bar • Select Straight Stitch. Note: This is the only stitch that can be used with this attachment. • Slowly turn the handwheel toward you, making sure the needles go into the center of the large hole on the stitch plate. NEEDLE PUNCHING Machine needle punching uses the same principles as free-motion stitching but is much easier because there are no stitches or threads to consider. TIPS: Sew a little faster than usual as you move the fabric. Don't push or pull the fabric. Most importantly, relax and have fun! JACKET PREPARATION The Haiku Two jacket pattern is perfect for needle punching. The lapel and jacket front are cut in one piece with the center front edges of the jacket folded back to form the lapels. The folded lapel is then stitched into the shoulder seam. After punching the flowers along the front of the jacket, you will trim the fabric from around the outer edges of the flowers and leaves. PUNCHING THE FLOWERS ISSUE 18 With this in mind, extend the cutting line for the outer lapel edge by 2". This gives enough fabric to hold on to while needle punching the flowers. DESIGNING THE FLOWERS The flowers shown on the jacket are freeform and created as they are punched. General directions are given for shaping and punching flowers. Keep in mind that the floral designs on the two lapels should complement each other and work as one design down the front of the jacket. DESIGN TIPS: Use a variety of shapes and an interesting mix of colors as you design the front of the jacket. Make a combination of large and small flowers. Add leaves to some and stems to others. Make some flowers round and some with petals like daisies. They don't have to be perfect to look natural. Loop a piece of yarn or roving into a flower petal shape. Put it under the presser foot and "punch" it with the needles to mesh the yarn and background fabric together. Continue shaping the yarn or rov ing until you have the petals of the first flower completely shaped and punched. Add a different color for the center or for the lower portion of the bud; punch. Continue shaping and punching flowers as desired along the lapel line of the jacket fronts. After punching the flowers on the front, turn the fabric over and punch from the wrong side. Turn back to the front and punch a final time. After punching flowers along the lapel line of both jacket fronts, trim the excess fabric away. Fold the lapel back and construct the jacket as the pattern directs. 19