Bernina 732, homeappliance

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Bernette 715 730 740 E Bernette 740 E I BERNINA Instruction Manual Livret d'instruction Handleiding Congratulations on the purchase of your new sewing machine! Nous vous félicitons d'avoir acquis votre nouvelle machine à coudrel Hartelijk gefeliciteerd met de aankoop van uw nieuwe naaimachine! You have bought a quality product which was manufactured with care and attention. Your sewing machine is easy to use but this instruction bookhas been written to help you get the most out of your machine. We suggest you read it before starting to sew. Vous avez, en effet, opté pour un produit de qualité qui a été fabriqué avec le plus grand soin. Votre machine a coudre est facile à utiliser, mais il faut, naturellement suivre les règles du jeu. Nous les avons rassemblées pour vous dans ce livret d'instructions. Si vous les respectez, vous réussi rez, dès le commencement ce que vous entrepre nez. Uheeft een kwaliteitsprodukt gekocht dat met veel zorgvuldigheid werd vervaardigd. Uw naaimachi ne is eenvoudig te bedienen en deze handleiding helpt u om alle mogelijkheden van uw machine te ontdekken. Lees deze aandachtig door voordat u met het naaien begint. You will no doubt have questions now and then for which you cannot find an answer in this book. Your dealer is always on hand to help with advice and Af en toe zult u wel eens een vraag hebben die dit boek niet kan beantwoorden. Uw Bernette vak handelaar is dan altijd graag bereid om u advies en tips te geven. Sürement, en tant que créatrice de mode pour la famille, vous aurez, de temps à autre, des ques- tions auxquelles nous n'avons pas répondu entièrement dans ce livret. Alors, il vous suffit de demander à votre agent. Il sera toujours là pour VOUS. We wish you many hours of sewing pleasure. Wij wensen u veel plezier bij het naaien. Maintenant, nous vous souhaitons bien du plaisir durani vos loisirs pour l'habillement. Avec votre machine, donnez libre cours à votre imagination. © 1992 Fritz Gegauf Lid. Bernina Sewing Machines CH-8266 Steckborn (Switzerland) © 1992 Fritz Gegaut SA Fabrique de machines à coudre Bernina CH-8266 Steckborn (Suisse) © 1992 Fritz Gegauf AG Bernina Naaimachinefabriek CH-8266 Steckborn (Zwitserland) We reserve the right to make technical changes in the interest of progress. Sous réserve des modifications apportées dans l'intérêt du progres technique. Veranderingen in het belang van de technische vooruitgang voorbehouden. List of contents Accessones..---- Automatic needle stop Model 740E only) ..... Automatic needle threador Model 740E only........ Needle - inserting - Needle positions ............ ....... Needle/thread iable........................ Overlock stitches...... 156,58 Practical stitches........... 66, 68, Presser loot - removing ---------- Presser foot - attaching ... Presser foot lifter.. Blind hemlingerie stitch.....--.. Bobbin - inserting Bobbin - tension ........... Bobbin - winding.... 18. 01.24 Bringing up the lower thread.. Bulb - changing ..............18 Buttons - sewing on Model 740E onlyi .... Buttonholes Reverse sewing........ Colour code green and blue... Colour code rod and yellow ..............48 Connecting the machine ............. 14, 16 Cording foot Model 740E only) ...... B8 Safety regulations .. Smocking stitch... Speed control... Stitch selection. ..................... Stitch table -------------- Straight stitchzig-zag ... - - Darning .................................80 Decorative stitches I Model 740E only) ------ Details of the machine .... ............... 6,8 Tersion - upper ihread Tension lower thread Threading - upper thread ........ Three-step zig-zag .... Triple straight stitch/zig-zag .......60.62 Trouble shooting guide ................ Twin needle Model 740E only) Feed dog - lowering ---------------.20 Fooi control ---------------- . 14. 16 Zips - sewing in .......... Herrmer lool ..... Inserting the needle ....... Inserting the seam guide. ---- ....... LED display ... Light ..... .... ... 48 ....... 14, 16 Maintenance . .....................90 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: 11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening 3. Never operate this appliance if it has a dama- ged cord of plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for exami nation, repair, electrical or mechanical adjust- merit. 12. Do not use outdoors. Read all instructions before using this sewing machine 13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. DANGER 4. Never operate the appliance with any air Openings block. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. 14. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("0") position, then remove plug from outlet. To reduce the risk of electric shock: 15. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug. grasp the plug, not the cord. 5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. 1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. 2. Always unplug this appliance from the electric Outlet immediately after using and before cle aning. 3. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts. 6. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 16. This appliance is provided with double insula tion. Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for Servicing of Double-Insulated Appliances (except USA/Canada) 7. Do not use bent needles. Servicing of Double-Insulated Products 8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. WARNING To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: 9. Switch the sewing machine off ["0") when ma king any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threa ding bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the 1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close atten tion is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children. 2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attach menis recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 17. In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double insulated product, nor should a means for grounding be added to the product Servicing of a double-insulated product requires extre me care and knowledge of the system, and should be done only by qualified service per sonnel. Replacement parts for a double-insu lated product must be indentical to those parts in the product. A double-insulated product is marked with the words "DOUBLE INSULATION" or "DOUBLE INSULATED". 10. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet wen removing covers, lubri cating, or when making another user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction ma nual. Consignes de sécurité Veiligheidsvoorschriften The symbol may also be marked on the product. Les consignes de sécurité énumérées ci-après doivent être impérativement respectées De navolgende veiligheidsvoorschriften dienen absoluut in acht te worden genorren: SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS Dès qu'elle est en mouvement, l'aiguille est source de danger (risque de blessure pour les doigts). Il convient donc d'observer en permanence l'emplacement ou s'effectue la couture. De bewegende naald is een gevaar voor uw vin gers. Het naaloppervlak dient dan ook steeds in het oog te worden gehouden. This sewing machine is intended for household use only. Toute manipulation dans la zone d'action de l'aiguille (remplacement de l'aiguille, du pied-de- biche, de la plaque à aiguille ou mise en route du dispositif automatique d'enfilage) ne doit s'effectuer que lorsque la machine est débranchée (interrupteur principal sur "O"). Alle handelingen binnen het bereik van de bewe gende naald, bijv. het vervangen van de naald, de naalvoet, de steekplaat of het bedienen van de automatische inrijger, mogen alleen uitgevoerd worden wanneer de machine uitgeschakeld is (hoofdschakelaar op "0" zetten). Pour tous les travaux d'entretien (nettoyage et huilage), ainsi que pour le remplacement de l'ampoule, il convient de débrancher la machine en retirant la fiche de la prise électrique. Procéder de même lors d'interruptions ou à la fin d'un travail. Bij alle onderhoudswerkzaamheden (reinigen en oliën), alsmede bij het verwisselen van het gloei lampje dient de naaimachine uitgeschakeld te worden door middel van de stekker uit het stop kontakt te trekken. De machine dient eveneens bij onderbreking en na beëindiging van het naaiwerk uitgeschakeld te worden door de stekker uit het stopkontakt te verwijderen. Ne jamais intervenir dans la partie électrique de la machine, notamment pour le remplacement du raccordement de la pédale de commande. Ce type de travail doit être contié à un technicien du service après-vente. Alle reparaties aan het elektrische gedeelte van de machine, in het bijzonder het vervangen van de aansluiting naar de voetweerstand, mogen alleen door uw Bernette vakhandelaar worden uitge voerd. Details of the machine Models 7400/7301 1 LED display 2 Stitch selection dial 3 Needle position knob 4 Stitch width dial 5 Stitch length dial Reverse sewing bulion 7 Speed adjustment knob 8 Hinged bobbin cover 9 Bobbin case 10 Drop teed control 11 Stitch plate 12 Needle clamp screw 13 Automatic needle threader 14 Thread take-up spring 15 Needle stop up 16 Needle stop down 17 Thread tension control 18 Thread take-up lever 1 Carrying handle 2 Spool holder pins Thread guide 4 Two-step presser foot lifter 5 Thread cutter on presser foot holder 6 Presser foot release 7 Extension table and open ac cessory box 8 Foot control socket 9 Main plug socket 10 Power switch 11 Light switch 12 Bobbin winder cover 13 Bobbin winder 14 Bobbin winder thread cutter 15 Handwheel 16 Bobbin thread guide Details of the machine 1 Carrying handle 2 Stitch selection dial Handwheel 4. Stitch length dial 5 Reverse sowing button 6 Bobbin winder cover Hinged bobbin cover Bobbin case 9 Drop feed control 10 Stitch plate 11 Thread cutter on presser fool holder 12 Needle clamp screw 13 Thread take-up spring 14 Thread take-up 15 Thread tension control Accessories a General purpose foot No.3 Embroidery tool No. 4 Overlock foot No. 8 Zipper foot No. N Cording foot No. 2 Darning foot Buttonhole foot Hemmer No. 1 Blind hem foot No. 9 Button sewing foot No. 6 k" We recommend the use of these specially designed presser feet for perlect results. + These 3 presser feel are not supplied with Models 715 and 730. They are however available as special accessories from your local dealer. Large screwdriver Oiler Cleaning brush Seam npper Needles (3x) Bobbins (3x) Seam guide ...... 10 Stitch choice for each model Stitch 715 740E 1.1 Buttonhole Straighi stitch Triple straight stitch Zig-zag Triple zig-zag 3-Step zig-zag Smocking stitch Shell hem Rampart Double overlock Stretch Blindhem Double arrow Blindhem, lingerie Single overlock Elastic overlock Stretch overlock Standard overlock Bridging Feather stitch Ribbon Scallop Double scallop Triangle long Square stitch Cross stitch Diamond stitch ....................... Connecting the machine to the power source (Model T40E) Connect plug "A" and plug "B" to the Foot control machine and plug "C" into the mains socket. Turn on power switch "D". (1) The speed of the machine can be This appliance has a polarized plug regulated by applying pressure to the (one blade Wider than the other). foot control. (2) Speed control To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polariz ed outlet only one way. The maximum speed of the machine can be reduced with the speed con trol knob "D". (3) If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug NNNN If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. The speed control function is particu larly useful for intricate work, e.g. sewing corners, matching up pal terns etc. and is ideal for beginners Do not modify the plug in any way. minimum maximum Caution: The Foot Controller Model 40-337B is for using with Sewing Machine Model 740E. Sewing light Model 740E) Press power switch "A". Press light switch "B". (4) High power, high frequency interference can cause variations in the motor speed of up to 50%. These will disappear however, as soon as the interference stops. Connecting the machine to the power source (Models 715. 720) Foot control Powu SWtch Connect plug "A" to the machine and plug "B" to the mains socket. Turn on power switch "C". (1) attachement aveptacle This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). The speed of the machine can be regulated by applying pressure to the foot control (2) To reduce the risk of electric shock. this plug is intended to fit in a polariz ed outlet only one way. Sewing light Mode's 715, 730) Paver sou de Turn on power switch G. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlei. reverse the plug. ll it still does not fit, contaci a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet Do not modily the plug in any way Caution: The Fooi Controller Model 3C-135B or 4C-3166 is for using with Sewing Machine Model 715 and Fing Carduchor Intended To Be Grounded Changing the bulb Disconnect the machine from the power supply by removing the plug from the mains socket! - Loosen screw "C" on the back of the head cover - Remove the head cover "D". – Unscrew the bulb "E" and fit new – Replace the head cover and ligh ten screw Should there be any problem, ask your local dealer for advice. Automatic needle stop (HTTE THE anil: When the machine stops, the needle stops at its highest position (1) Certain types of sewing tasks are made easier if the needle is lowered in the fabric, e.g. sewing corners, starting to sew. – Press button "A" for needle down – Press buiton "B" for needle up Two-step presser foot lover When sewing several layers or thick fabrics, the presser foot can be raised a second stage for easy posi tioning of the work. (2) Drop feed control For normal sewing, the feed dog should be in the raised position. Press "A". (3) For certain types of work, e.g. dar ning or free-hand embroidery, the feed dog must be lowered. Press "B". 20 Attaching the presser foot holder Raise the presser foot clamp "a". (1) Attach the presser foot holder "b" as illustrated. Attaching the presser foot Lower the presser foot holder "a" until the cut-out "c" is directly above the pin "d". (2) Raise the lever "e". Lower the presser foot holder "a" and the presser foot T will engage auto matically Removing the presser foot Raise the presser foot. (3) Raise the lever "o" and the foot disen gages. Attaching the seam guide Attach the searn guide "g" in the slot as illustrated. Adjust according to need for hems, pleais, etc (4) Attention: Turn power switch to "0" when carrying out any of the above operations! 22 Winding the bobbin Open the bobbin winder cover. (1) Place empty bobbin on spindle. Movement of the needle is automati cally cut out. (2) Take the thread from the spool through the guide to the bobbin. (314) . ..... ... . . Wind thread a few times by hand round the emply bobbin in a clock wise direction. Press the foot control. As soon as the bobbin is full, winding will stop and the thread will be cut automatically. Remove the bobbin and close the bobbin winder case. (5) Inserting the bobbin When inserting or removing the bob bin, the noodle must be fully raised. Note: The bobbin thread tension does not normally have to be adjusted. Open the hinged cover. (1) Hold the bobbin case with one hand, Insert the bobbin so that the thread runs in a clockwise direction (arrow). Pull the thread through the slit and under the finger. (3) Hold the bobbin case by the hinged latch. (4) Insert it into the shuttle. (5) Attention: Turn power switch to "0". Bobbin thread tension To test the bobbin thread tension, remove the bobbin case and bobbin and hold it by suspending it by the thread. Jerk it once or twice. If the tension is correct, the thread will un wind by about an inch or two. If the tension is too tight, it does noturwind at all. If the tension is too loose, it will drop too much. To adjust, turn the small screw on the side of the bobbin case. (6) Inserting the needle System 130 705H) Change the needle regularly especially if it is showing signs of wear and causing problems. Insert the needle as illustrated as follows: A Loosen the needle clamp screw and lighten again after inserting the new needle. (1) B The flat side of the shaft should be towards the back. CD Insert the needle as far up as it will go. Attention: Turn power switch to "0"! Needles must be in perfect condition. Problems can occur with: A bent needles B blunt necdlos C damaged points Needle-Thread table Tableau des aiguilles et fils Rule of thumb: The thicker the fabric and the thicker the thread, the higher the count of needle. Type of fabric Sewing task Needle system 130/705H Type of thread Type d'étoffe Travaux de couture Fine fabric, e.g. Bastiste Universal needle 70 Colton thread Seams Topstitching Etofles fines p. ex. batiste, sole coutures surpiqûres Universal needle 80 Medium-weight fabric, e.g. cotton Seams Topstitching Cotion thread Synthetic thread Eioffes παγEΠΠΑ p. ex. coton, linge coutures surpiqûres Eloffes épaisses coutures p. ex. velours côtelé, tweed surpiqûres Universal needle 90-110 Thick fabric, corduroy, tweed Seams Topstitching Cotton thread polyester thread Etoffes dures et stables comme les jeans coutures surpiqûres Jeans noodle 90-110 Hard, firm fabrics, e.g. denim Seams Topstitching Jeans thread, polyester thread Etoffes élastiques p. ex. jersey, tricot Coutures surpiqûres Polyester thread Stretch fabrics e.g. jersey, knits Seams Topstitching Stretch needle 80-90 (ball point) pour tous types d'étoffes reprisage, raplècage, surtilage, boutonnières. broderies fines For all types of fabric Darning, mending. Universal needle 70-90 neatening, bution holes, fine embroidery Embroidery and darning thread cotton thread Pour types d'étoffes fines à moyennes couture de nervures coutures décoratives Double needle 70 Collon thread For fine to medium weight fabrics Pintucks Decorative seams Pour types d'étoffes épaisses couture de nervures coutures décoratives For thick fabrics Double needle 80 Pintucks Decorative seams Embroidery thread Cotton thread Polyester thread Cuir, simili-cuir . tous travaux de couture Leather, imitation leather All work Leather needle 80-100 Polyester thread Threading the upper thread Attention: Turn power switch to "0". Raise the needle bar. - Take the thread through the guide on the back of the machine from right to left, then (1) – between the thread tension discs and (2) - from right to left in the thread take up spring (3) - up and from right to left through the thread take-up lever (4) – down through the guides (5/6) and thread the needle, always from front to back (see next page). Upper thread tension Basic thread tension setting: 4 To increase the tension, turn the dial to the next number up. To reduce the tension, turn the dialto the next number down. A Normal thread tension B Thread tension too loose C Thread tension too tight Automatic needle threader (Model T40E only) - Raise the needle to its highest position Press lever "A" right down - The threader automatically swings to the threading position "B" - Take the thread round the hook "C" – Take the thread in front of the needle round the hook "D" from bottom to top Release lever "A" Pull the thread through the needle вув. Attention: Turn power switch to "0" ANN 36 Bringing up the lower thread Modal 740E only) The lower thread can be brought up by using the needle stop function or by tapping the foot control. 1 Hold the upper thread in your lett hand 2 Press button "A" 3 Pull gently on the upper thread to bring up the lower thread. Lay both threads to the back under the presser foot. . . The lower thread can also be brought up by using the handwheel: Hold the upper thread in the left hand, turn the handwheel forwards until the needle is raised and pull on the upper thread. AB Bringing up the lower thread (Modes 715,730) Hold the upper thread with the left hand. Turn the handwheel forwards until the needle is raised. (1) Pull on the upper thread to bring the lower thread up through the stitch plate hole. Lay both threads to the back under the presser foot. (2) Reverse sewing At the end of the seam, press the Reverse sewing button. Sew a few reverse stitches. Release the button and the machine will sew forwards again. (1) Removing the work Turn the handwheel forwards to bring the thread take-up lever to its highest position, raise the presser foot and romove work towards the back (2) . Cutting the thread: Hold the threads behind the presser foot with both hands, guide them to the slit "A" and press down. Three needle positions (Model 740E only) Turn the stitch selection dial to straig ht stitch. (1) ܀ ܠ 188 3131.0 Seams in jersey can be sewn and neatened in one operation. Attractive effects can be obtained in woven fabrics, depending on the type of stitch. Always sew on the right side of the fabric with a Twin needle. 24 23 22 21 20 B TILO The needle position can be altered with the lever "A". For normal work the needle position is Centre. For edge stitching or sewing parallellines of top stitching, select needle posi tion Left or Right. ܩ 2 . . B Needle position: C (all normal work) C Needle position: L (edge stitching, etc.) D Needle position: R (top stitching, etc.) Attention: Use needle position "Centre" only. The stitch width should not be more than 3. For safety's sake, turn the handwheel to check that the needle does not go into the stitch plate. CBD Sewing with a Twin needle (Model 740E onlyi For visible seams in jerseys, decora tive work, pintucks. (2) Attention: Turn power switch to "O"! Insert the Twin needle, thread both threads, see lustration Page 30, thread needle eyes separately. Colour coded stitch selection Model 715) Turn the stitch selection dial to the desired position(1) . Note the colour of the chosen stitch. Turn the stitch length dial in the range of the same colour. (2) The stitch length can be adjusted within the same coloured area. The stitch width is given with the exception of Zig-zag). V LED Display (Model 740E only) Stitch selection with light diode and colour code. OO SVYO DANA 33MESSA Note the colour of the chosen stitch. Turn the stitch width dial (2) to the same colour code. The stitch width can be adjusted within the red mar ked area. 1 16 16 HDI -10 Colour code Green and Blue. Turn the stitch selection dial (1) until the green diode lights up at the stitch desired. Note the colour of the chosen stitch. Stitch Balance (4) for stitches A: + lengthen - shorten . (model 740E only) Colour indicator (Model 730 only) Stitch selection with coloured mar king and colour code Adjustments as described. Turn the stitch width dial (2) and the stitch length dial to the same colour 24 23 22 21 20 9 E 17 16 15 1 11 10– Stitch width and length can be adju sted within the same area of colour, Colour code Red and Yellow Turn the stitch length dial (3) to the position if you want to select "red"/ "yellow" stitches. The stitch longth is given automati Turn the stitch selection dial (1) until the red diode lights up at the stitch desired. Straight stitch 138: SILI YMYWT Set the machine as illustrated. Rule of thumb: The thicker the fabric, thread and needle, the longer the stitch should be. (1) 24 23 22 21 2 15 3 11 16 15 14 13 120 10 Zig-zag Adjust the stitch width. (2) 2 000. Adjust to the zig-zag width desired. ... . TINA 24 23 22 21 21 14 29 2/3 50 Neatening edges Set the machine as illustrated. (1) 48X: BUDI Guide the fabric so that the needle goes in just over the edge of the fabric. (2) 24 23 22 21 21 ET G15 H 21011 10– Attention: Use Foot No.8 for fabrics which tend to pucker. Select Zig-zag and stitch width 4-5. 3-Step Zig-zag Sewing on lace and elastic, darning, mending, reinforcing edges. 188 SUDI Set the machine as illustrated. (1) 24 23 22 21 20 19 11 15 5 14 2011 Place patch in position. The stitch length can be shortened to produce very close stitches. (2) When mending tears, it is advisable to use a piece of backing fabric to reinforce. The stitch density can be varied by adjusting the stitch length. First sew over the centre and then overlap on both sides. Depending on the type of fabric and damage, sew between 3 and 5 rows. (3) IIIIIII LLLLLLLL LIIII LLLL LLL LLLLLL LLLLLLLLLL Overlock stitches Searns, neatening, visible hems. Turn stitch length dial (3) to "A". Attention: Use new needles or ball point needles! 2 12 21 20 1 5 14 1241 LTL Turn the stitch selection dial until the red diode lights up at the desired stitch. . .. . The stitch width (2) can be adjusted to suit the fabric. (4-5) Standard overlock (Model 740E onlyi For fine knits, jerseys, neck edges, ribbing. Double overlock stitch (Model 740E only) For fine knits, handknits, seams. Overlock stitch For fine knits, jerseys, neck edges, ribbing All overlock stitches are suitable for sewing and neatening edges and vi sible seams in one operation. When neatening, the needle should just go over the edge of the fabric. 56 Overlock Stretch overlock Model 7301 ISM D12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 412 LOT Seams, neatening edges, visible hemis. Set machine as illustrated. (1) E for fine fabrics C for thick fabrics Both stitches are suitable for sewing and neatening edges and visible hems in one operation. When nea tening the needle should just go over the edge of the fabric. Stitch selection Triple straight stitch (Models 730740E only). оооооооооооооооо 13 YVYO BIO For hardwearing seams. 23 22 21 20 118 115 MDV1110– Turn the stitch length dial (3) to "A". W ...... . **** . . . Turn the stlich selection dial (1) until the red diode lights up as illustrated. Turn the stitch width dial (2) to "0". 22 .. . . . .. . . The machine sews two stitches for wards and one stitch backwards. This gives triple reinforcement. .. .. 715/730 740 E Triple zig-zag For hardwearing seams, hems and decorative seams. Turn the silich length dial (3) to "A". Adjust the stitch width dial (2) to between 3 and 5. Triple zig-zag is suitable for firm fab rics like denim, corduroy, etc. Stitch solection Triple straight stitch Model 715 only) For hardwearing seams. Set the machine as illustrated. The machine sews two stitches forward and one stitch backwards. This gives triple reinforcement. . Triple zig-zag Model 715 only) For hardwearing seams, hems and decorative seams. No Triple zig-zag is ideal for firin fabrics such as denim, corduroy, etc. MWwwww Smocking stitch I Modals 730-740E only) Seams, hems, T-shirts, underwear, etc. 24 23 22 21 20 E 65 M 32 10 Set the machine as illustrated. This stitch can be used for all types of jersey as well as for woven fabrics. Sow at 1 cm (1/4") from the fabric edge and trim the surplus fabric. (2) . Practical stitches OOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Set the machine as illustrated. This stitch can be used for firm, thik Turn the stitch selection dial (1) untilker fabrics. the green diode lights up at the desired stitch. LE D10 Turn the stiich widih dial (2) and stitch length dial (3) to the same colour code and adjust to suit the fabric. Shell hem 16 For decorative edges. Suitable for edges on sheer, fine and stretch fabrics. The larger stitch should go just over the edge of the fabric to create the shell effect. Bridging 17 Models 730 740E only For searis, place mats, tablecloths. ᏙᏙᏙᏙᏙᏙᏙᏙᏙᏙ . wwwwwww Decorative joining seam for a fagot ted effect: Gathering with cord or shurring elastic Rampart 18 Model 740E only For flat joining seams, sewing on elastic, visible hems. 17 18 Practical stitches Set the machine as illustrated. Turn the stitch selection dial (1) until the red diode lights up at the desired stitch. Turn the stitch length dial (3) to "A" The stitch width dial (2) can be adjusted to between 3 and 5. N 23 22 21 20 19 19 17 16 15 14 13 12 10– Elastic overlock 4 ¡Not for Model 715) . For hems, decorative seams. Suita ble for hems or decorative seams in stretch fabrics Double arrow 7 Only for Model 740E) For seams and hems. This stitch is suitable for sewing and neatening stretch fabrics and as a decorative seam in thicker fabrics. Practical stitches ISM D12 1109 432 21 Set the machine as illustrated. Turn the stitch selection dial (1) until the red diode goes on at the stitch desired. Turn the stitch length dial (3) to "A" and adjust the stitch length dial (2) to between 3 and 5. Feather stitch 8 Model 730 only) Joining seams, decorative seams. For seams in stretch fabrics, joining seams in fine and thick fabrics. Decorative stitches Model 740E only! For edges, tablecloths, bed linen, cuffs, embroidery. 11 12 10 19 Square stitch 20 Diamond stitch 21 Ribbon 22 Scallop 23 Double scallop 24 Triangle long Turn the stitch length dial (1) until the green diode lights up at the stitch desired. For an attractive, decorativo effect, adjust the stitch width (2) to maximum and the stitch length ac cording to the desired eflect. For better results, use a paper or tear away backing Embroidery thread adds to the ef lect 19 20 21 22 23 24 Decorative stitches (Model 740E only Edges, tablecloths, bed linen, cuffs, embroidery 918 IT GISHJETIL-107 Cross stitch 9 Turn the stitch selection dial (1) until the red diode lights up at the stitch desired. Cross stitch: Turn the stitch length dial (3) to "A". For an attractive, decorative effect: adjust the stitch width (2) to maxi mum and the stitch length according to the desired effect. For better re sults, use a paper or lear-away bac king. Embroidery thread adds to the effect. www. Buttonholes Set the machine as illustrated. (1) (Adjust the slitch length dial in the green marked area for a correct stitch density-varies according to the fab ric). Always test sew a buttonhole. 21 22 21 20 19 1 0 16 15 14 12 10 Follow the sequence. (2) HMWWW Position the button on the foot as illustrated. Loosen the large screw "B" of the part "A" and slide it towards the button until it lightly touches the other edge, then re-tighten screw "B". Rerriove the button and attach the Buttonhole foot. The gauge is now set for sewing perfectly even length buttonholes. (3) When starting to sew the buttonhole, the gauge on the foot should be pushed fully forwards. (4) Use the seam ripper and cut bution hole open from both ends towards the middle. - A slightly reduced upper thread tension produces better results. Use a backing for fine or stretchy fabrics It is advisable to use gimp cord for stretch or knit fabrics. The zig-zag should sew over the gimp. 3 Blind hem/lingerie stitch For hems, curtains, trousers, skirts, etc. 0000OOOO 13** S I 24 23 22 21 20 DIN L-10 14 Blind hem for stretch fabrics 15 Blind her lingerie for firm tab rics. Set the machine as illustrated. (1) Note: It takes practice to sew blind hems. Always make a sewing test first. Fold the fabric as illustrated with the wrong side uppermost (2) Place the fabric under the foot. Turn the handwheelforwards by hand until the needle swings fully to the left. It should just pierce the fold of the fab ric. If it does not, adjust the stitch width accordingly. (3) Adjust the guide (4) by turning the knob (5) so that the guide just rests against the fold. Sew slowly, guiding the fabric care fully along the edge of the guide. Turn the speed control to Mirtum! 1 1 1 Darning Set the machine as illustrated. Lower the feed dog. (1) Remove the presser foot clamp. (2) 24 23 22 21 20 10 211 - 0 Attach the Darning foot to the pres ser loot holder. The lever "A" should be behind the needle clamp screw B". Press the Darning foot on firmly from behind with your index finger and tighten the screw "C". (3) First sew round the edge of the hole (to secure the threads). (4) First row: Always work from left to right. Turn work by Ve and oversew. A darning ring is recommended for easier sewing and better results. Note: When darning is completed, raise the feed dog! Sewing in zips Set the machine as illustrated. (1) The zip foot can be inserted right or left, depending on which side of the foot you are going to sew. (23) il 21 Z 21 12.11 LA To sew past the zip pull, lower the needle into the fabric, raise the pres ser loot and push the zip pull bohind the presser foot. Lower the foot and continue to sow Sewing on buttons (Model 740E only Set the machine as illustrated. Lower the feed dog. Needle position right 24 23 22 21 20 9 1] 15 15 1) IZL10 – Position the work under the foot. Place the button on the marked posi tion, lower the foot, adjust stitch width to "0" and sew a few securing stit ches. Adjust the stitch width (normal ly between 3 and 4). Turn the hand wheel to check that the needle goes cleanly into the left hole of the button (adjust the stitch width according to the bullon), and sew on the button. Adjust the stitch widih to "0" and sew a few securing stitches. (2) If a shank is required place a darning needle on top of the button and sew. (3) For buttons with 4 holes, sew through the front two holes first (Fig. 2). push work forward and then sew through the back two holes as des cribed. (3) Sewing with the Hemmer foot i Model 704E only For hems in fine or sheer fabrics. 191.1 Set the machine as illustrated. (1) 24 23 22 21 20 13 CULO Neaten the edge of the fabric. At the beginning of the hem, turn under the edge twice by about 3 mm (1") and sow 4-5 stitches to secure. Pull the thread slightly towards the back. In sert the needle into the fabric, raise the presser foot and guide the fold into the scroll on the foot. (2) Gently pull the fabric edge towards you and lower the presserfoot. Begin sewing, guiding the fabric into the scroll by holding it upright and slightly to the leti. (3) Sewing with the Cording foot Model T40E only) Decorative etfects, cushions, ta blecloths, etc. 18# S OL 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 15 14 1 211 Set the machine as illustrated. Va rous stitches are suitable for sewing on cord, e.g. Zig-zag, Triple zig-zag, decorative stitches. (1) Insert the cord between the spring covering the cord groove and the loot. The cord should run in the groove One, two or three cords can be sewn on. The stitch width is adju sted according to the number of cords and the stitch selected. (23) Maintenance two hook retaining arms. Insert the bobbin case and bobbin and replace the stitch plate Attention: Disconnect the machine from the electricity supply by remo ving the plug from the mainis socket. When cleaning the ma chine, it must always be dis connected from the electricity supply. Important: Fabric fluff and threads must be re moved regularly. Your machine should be serviced at regular inter vals at one of our service agencies. Remove the stitch plate: Turn the handwheel until the needle is fully raised. Open the hinged front cover and push the release lever upwards. (1) Cleaning the feed dog: Remove the bobbin caso (see Page 26) and use the brush supplied to clean the whole area. (2) Cleaning and lubricating the hook: Remove the bobbin case (see Page 26). Snap the two hook retaining arms (3) outwards. Remove the hook race cover (4) and the hook (5) and clean with a soft cloth. Lubricate at the points (6)(1-2 drops) with sowing machine oil. Turn the handwheel until the hookrace (7) is in the left position, Replace the hook (5). Replace the hook race cover and snap back the Trouble shooting guide Disconnect machine from electricity supply Problem Correction Upper ihread breaks 1. The machine is not threaded correctly 2. The thread tension is too tight 3. The thread is too thick for the needle 4. The needle is not inserted correctly 5. The thread is round wound the spool holder pin 6. The needle is damaged 1. Rathind the richir 2. Fieduce the thread tension lower number 3. Sed aliqur medle 4. Remove and reinsert the needle (flat side towards the back) 5. Remove the red and wind thrid and real 6. Heplace the needle Lower ihread breaks 1. The bobbin case is not inserted correctly 1. Remove and reinsert the bobbin case and pull on the thread. The thread should pul gasily 2. Check both bobbin and bobbin case 3. Loosen lower thread tension as described 2. The bobbin case is ihreaded wrongly 3. The lower thread torsion is too light Skuppad stitches 1. The needle is not inserted correctly 2. The needle is damaged 3. The wrong size noodle has been used 4. The food is not attached correctly 1. Hemove and reinseri neda (flat side towards the back) 2. Inseri 2 Men needle 3. Choose a needle to surf the thread and fahne 4. Check and allach correctly Needle breaks 1. The needle is damaged 2. The needle is not correctly insutud 3. Wrong nede sire for the fabric 1. The wrong tool is attached 1. Ingart a new nuudle 2. Insert the needle correctly flat side towards the back] 3. Chood aneudle ID suit the thread and fabric 4. Select the correct toot Loose sutches 1. The machine is not correctly threaded 2. The bobbin case is not comectly threaded 3. Needle fabric thread combination is wrong 4. Thread laman wrong 1. Check the threading 2. Thread the bobbin case as illustrated 3. The needle size must sult the fabric and thread 4 Correct the thimad tension Sciurtis gather or pucker 1. The needle is too thick for the labria 2 The stitch length s wrongly adjusted 3. The thread tension is too light 1. Select a finge madhe 2. Readjust the stitch length 3. Loosen the thread tons on Unaven stitches, uneven feed 1. Poor quality thread 2. The bobbin case is wrongly threaded 3. Fabric has been pulled 1. Select a better quality thread 2. Remove bobbin case and rethread and insert correctly 3. Do not pull on the fabric while sewing, at a be taken up by the machine The machine is noisy 1. The machine must be lubricated 2. Fluff or oil have collected on the hook or needle bar 3. Poor quality oil has been used 4. The needle is damaged 1. Lubricate as described 2. Clean the hook and leed dog as described 3. Only use good quality swing machine oil 4. Replace the needle The machine jams 1. Thread is caught in the hook 1. Remove the upper thread and bobbin case, turn the handwheel backwards and forwards by hand and remove the thread emas. Lubiricale is described 021010102/C) / / MAR/97