Bernina 420, homeappliance

Download!

Bernette 440 INSTRUCTION BOOK Bernette MODELS 410 420 430 440 Your new sewing-machine is the produci af many years of research and developinent Quality materials have been used together with functional design techniques in achieve om operating efficiency and many years of dependable service. Before attempting to sew, however, and to obtain the maximum benefits, please study this booklet carefully following each step on your machine. Repeat the process until You ore familiar with the controls and their functions. Time spent at this stage will eliminate errors and will result in your complete satisfachon und enjoyment CONTENTS INSTRUCTION BOOK MODELS 410.420.430440 Page Title 1. INTRODUCTION 2. CONTENTS PART NAMES 4. ACCESSORIES 5. CONNECTING MACHINE TO POWER SUPPLY FOOT CONTROL NEEDLE LIGHT SAFETY REGULATIONS WINDING BOBBIN INSERTING BOBBIN AND BOBBIN CASE. BOBBIN THREAD TENSION. UPPER THREADING 10. THREAD TENSION FOOT PRESSURE DROP FEED CONTROL TWO-STEP PRESSER FOOT LIFTER 12. SELECTION AND FITTING OF 22. OVERSEWING EDGES NEEDLE BLIND HEM STITCH 13. FITTING OF SHANK AND [Not for Model 4101 QUILTING/SEAM GUIDE 24. THREE STEP ZIG-ZAG FITTING OF PRESSER FEET (Noi lor Model 410) 14. BRINGING UP BOBBIN 25. STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH THREAD (Not for Model 410) COLOUR CODING TRIPLE ZIG-ZAG (RIC-RAC) THREE NEEDLE POSITIONS (Not for Model 410) SEWING PATTERNS STRETCH OVERLOCK AND MANUALLY OVERLOCK (Not for Models 410 TWIN NEEDLE SEWING and 420) 17. STRAIGHT STITCHING HONEYCOMB STITCH AND REVERSE STITCHING EHBROIDERYT/DECORATIVE REMOVING FABRIC STITCHING (For Model 440 only) THREAD CUTTER MAINTAINING THE ZIG-ZAG STITCHING MACHINE-NEEDLE PLATE 19. BUTTONHOLING 29. TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE DARNING 21. SEWING IN ZIPS 11. 20. PART NAMES 1 Face plale Tension dial Thread lake-up lever Thread regulator Two-step presser tool lifier Needle clamp screw Presser bor ihread culier Needle plale Hook cover Reverse stiching builon Shich length dial Pallein selector dial Siilch width dial Carrying handle 3 needle position control Spool holder pins Hand wheel Bobbin windercover Bobbin winder 13 19 18 Bobbin winder thread guide Accessory box Bobbin winder thread cutter Presver fool pressure contral inside face plate] Drop feed control inside hook Power switch Flat-bed extension table and bottory bon ACCESSORIES All purpose fool Zipper loal Satin stitch foot ¡No 4) Overcasting foot |No. B) Large screw driver Small screw driver Seamlipper Darning tool Can be used for all usual stitches including straight and zigzag Button hole foot |No. 5) Blind hem foot [No. 9) Oiler Brush Bobbin Pack of needles The use of these special sewing feet will improve the quality of stitch. The design of the feet may change Seum Guide CONNECTING MACHINE TO POWER SUPPLY Connect the machine to a power supply as illustrated (1). Using the correct plug, and switch on the machine power switch. FOOT CONTROL The foot control pedal regulates the sewing speed (2]. NEEDLE LIGHT To replace lamp, first disconnect from power supply by removing plug from sockel, open face plate, unscrew lamp and replace with a suitable new one (3]. Foar con See "Notes" page 6 THIS IS ONLY APPLICABLE TO MACHINES RED FOR THE UNITED KINGDOM SAFETY REGULATIONS IMPORTANT IMPORTANT The wires in this mains lead are coloured in accordance with the following code: BLUE - NEUTRAL BROWN - LIVE When leaving the sewing machine unat tended, the moins switch must be switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket outlet. When servicing the sewing mochine, or when removing covers or changing lamps, the machine or the clectrical set must be disconnecled from the supply by removing the plug from the socket outlet NOTE. As the colours of the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows: Connect BROWN wire to terminal marked Lor coloured RED. Conneci BLUE wire to lerminal marked N or coloured BLACK. THE MAXIMUM INPUT OF LAMP: 240 V 15 W THIS APPLIANCE CONFORMS TO THE STATUTORY RADIO INTERFERENCE SUPPRESSION REGULATIONS. The following safety regulations must be observed without fail: The moving needle is a source of danger risk of injury to fingers). The sewing arca must, therefore, be kept under constant observation, Manipu lations within the area of movement of the needle, such as changing the needle or threading the machine and all manipulations with open covers musi only be performed with the ma chine switched off [main switch setio off position) When cleaning or lubricating the machine or changing the lamp and during interruptions in sewing or after completion of work, the machine musi be disconnected from the power supply by pulling out the mains plug. Repairs to the electric section, especially the changing of the lead wire to the foot control unil, may only be carried out by one of our service agencies. FIT CORRECT PLUG TO POWER CORD WHEN USING A B.5. 1363 FUSED PLUG A3 AMP. FUSE MUST BE FITTED. If the terminals of the plug are unmarked consulta qualified clectrician before use. WINDING THE BOBBIN BOBBIN WINDER COVER Open the bobbin winder cover os illustraled. Don't forget to close the cover when you have finished winding (1) THREADING FOR BOBBIN WINDING Pass the thread from the spoolihrough the guide at the rear lett, 12) then back in front of the spool through the guide at the rear righi os illustrated (3) PLACING BOBBIN ON SPINDLE Push the bobbin on to the bobbin winder spindle until it is firmly engaged. Needle drive will automatically be disengagod (4) WINDING THREAD AROUND BOBBIN Wind the thread by hand seven of eight times round the bobbin in the direction of the arrow on the machine and holding the end of the thread between your forefinger and thumb, gently press down on the foot control pedal. The thread cutter will automal ically cut the thread when the bobbin is properly filled (5/6) INSERTING BOBBIN AND CASE INTO MACHINE INSERTING BOBBIN INTO CASE Open hook cover os illustrated. (1) Insert filled bobbin into cose as detailed. 2) Holding the hinged latch (3) insert bobbin and case into the hook making sure the finger "A" is located inside the section "B" 14). Leave about 10cm (4") of thread from the bobbin case and always ensure that the needle is raised to its highest position when removing on inserting the bobbin. BOBBIN THREAD TENSION Measure the bobbin thread tension by Suspending the wound bobbin in its cose by the end of the thread. If the bobbin does not move when it is gently swung, the tension is too light, if it falls to the ground or moves down too freely, it is too loose. Correct tension is obtained when it slips down a few inches (approx. 10 cm(5) Note: li is not normally necessary to adjust bobbin thread tension, It is usually only necessary to adjust the top thread tension when some alteration is desired. See pages 9/10. UPPER THREADING Follow the numbered sequence exacily. Pass the ihread through the guidell down in between the lension discs (2) under and into the thread regulator from right to let (3) up and through the take-up lever from right to left [4] and down through the guides (5,6) and through the eye of the needle from froni to back THREAD TENSION To increase the top lension fürn dialio a higher number, to de crease the tension turn to a lower number. The normal setting is 4. Normal thread tension is achieved when the upper and lower threads are equally set (cross in the middle of the fabric on both sides of the fabric (A). If too much of the upper thread shows underneath the fabric (B] or too much of the lower thread shows on top of the fabric C), the tension is too loose or too tight HOW TO ADJUST FOOT PRESSURE Varying thicknesses of fabric require adjustment of the pressure of the presser foot. To regulate the pressure, open the face plate and turn the pressure control dial (1] The larger the number on the dial, the greater the pressure. Sel the dial al 4 for lubric of medium weight. Use weaker pressure 1-3) for lighter and stronger pressure (5-6) for heavier fabrics. For very thick fabric such as denim and leather, use 7. TWO-STEP PRESSER FOOT LIFTER For extra thick fabrics, the presser foot can be raised further by lifting the presser lever a second stage. [2 DROP FEED CONTROL For mormolsewing the feed dogs should be in the raised position. Pushi --- When the fabric is not required to be fed ihrough the machine, je for free hand embroideryordamning etc., the lead dog should belowered Push (3) # SELECTING AND FITTING OF NEEDLE Select the correct size needle to suit the fabric and thread. Usually the heavier the fabric, the thicker the thread and larger the needle Make sure the needle is straight and not damaged. 1) Change the needle regularly and at the first sign of sewing problems. Insert as illustraled. 2] Tighten tozoids back noland Spring FITTING OF SHANK AND QUILTING/SEAM GUIDE Raise the presser bar and fit shankos shown [I] Insert quilting seam guide carefully so as not to damage the holding spring 2] FITTING OF PRESSER FEET One-touch Raise the prester tool. Pull the one-touch lever towards you and the foot will be released. Cenire new toot under shank, Lower shank until groove direcily abova and touching the pan. Pull one-touch levar towards you and the foot will become engaged. (3,4 BRINGING UP THE BOBBIN THREAD Hold the upper thread in your left hand, turn the hand whech towards you so that the needle goes down and up again (1) Gently pull the upper thread and the lower thread will be looped Place both threads under the presser foot and to the rear COLOUR CODING BUTTONHOLE MODEL IF THE STRAIGHT AND ZIG-ZAG STITCHES MODEL 3 STEP ZIG-ZAG STITCH Simply seleci ihe stitch pallern you require by rotating the patien selector dial to the desired position. Then match the colour code of the stich with the same colour marking on the stich length and stitch widih dials The stitch length and width can be varied within the colour markings on the dials Choose the settings according to the application and effect required. BLIND HEM STITCH MODEL STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH AND TRIPLE ZIG-ZAG IRIC-RACI STITCH MODEL STRETCH OVERLOCK STITCH OVERLOCK STITCH. HONEYCOMB STITCH SCALLOP DECORATIVE STITCH DOUBLE SCALLOP DECORATIVE STITCH|| NEEDLE POSITIONS The needle position con be set by moving the lever "A" The nor mal sewing position is in the centre position (1) The leli ond righi needle positions mokeileasier to sew close to the edge olfabrics etc. ond create various monuul embroidery pullens. SEWING PATTERNS MANUALLY NEEDLE POSITION AND PATTERN ZIGZAG DIAL STITCH LENGTH DIAL By selecting a sulin stitch closed-wpzig zogand by changing the zig-zag width in a regular manner and alla constant sewing speed, worious pollerns can be sewn. Dit tereni needle posilions will give different While sewing turn the dial from Oto 5 and return it from 5 to 0 at the same speed. 0.5-1 TWIN NEEDLE SEWING While swing turn the dial from 0 to 5 ond return it from Sta Odrawing some curved 0.5- 1 Atwin needle, using two top threads, con be used to creole very attractive double top stichting WARNING CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO SELECT ONLY THE CENTRE NEEDLE POSITION AND NEVER SET THE STITCH WIDTH GREATER THAN NR. 3 0.5-1 slowly at the some speed fron Dios and return it quickly from Sto O STRAIGHT STITCHING Set the pattern selector dial (Al as illustrated and the stich widih dial [B] to "C" The stitch length is controlled with the stitch length dial (C). While ?" or "3" on the dial gives a suitable stitch length for ordinary purposes, the stitch length varies with the weight of fabric, thickness of thread and purpose of sewing. Generally speaking, the liner ihe fabric, the finer the thread and shorer The stitch length; the heavier the fabric, the thicker the thread and longer the stitch lengih.11) REVERSE STITCHING To finish a seam, push the reverse builon and hold ii, sewing a few stitches backwards. When the button is released the machine will sew forwards again, [2 REMOVING FABRIC Raise the thread lake-up lever to its highest position by turning The hand wheel towards you. Slide the fabric out from under the foot to the rear of the machine. (3) PRESSER BAR THREAD CUTTER Hold the thread in both hands behind the presser foot Centre the tout thread into the slot "A" and pull down to cut the thread. 31 ZIG-ZAG STITCHING The zig-zag slitch can be sel ai various stitch widihs and Engihs according la the application required. Seithe pallern selector dial (Aos shown and the stitch length dial(C) belween ( 5 und 5. (1) The stilch widih dial (B) can be sei between lond 5.12 18 BUTTONHOLING Sei ihe paliern selecior dial (Ajio its buttonholing position and fit the Buttonholing foot. Set the stitch width dial (B) between 5 and 3.5 according to the overall width of the buttonhole to be sewn. Set the stitch length dial (C) within the green marking to achieve the correct density (closeness) of satin stitch (1) Sew in the sequence illustrated. [2] USER TIPS Always sewa samplebullonhole on some spare fobricos settings will change according to the fabric used. For very thin, stretchy or other difficuli fabrics, try using interfacing (vilene) or tissue or other paper underneath the fabric to aid machine teeding. Always use the Bullonhole foot using its calibrated markings to measure the buttonhole length. On suitable fabric, o corded buttonhole can be sewn taking care that the zig-zag stitches of the bullonhale oversew the cord. 3 Carefully cut belween the sides [beads) of the buttonhole with the seam ripper using a pin through the end bor lack (3) lo prevent the seam ripper going too far The top lension may be reduced to achieve a better looking bullonhole 10 DARNING Sel the dials os illustrated and lower the leed dog. (1) Remove the shank and replace with the Darning foot making sure the lever is placed over the needle clamp screw. (2A) To damn small holes and worn parts, stretch the fabric under the fooi between both hands and move it os illustrated whilst sewing Firsi sew round the hole (Bj then from side to side (C). Turn the fabric through 90' and continue to move the fabric from side to side lo achieve. (D] An embroidery ring will be needed to darn larger areas. SEWING IN ZIPS Set the machine as illustrated filling the Zipper fool. [1] The Zipper fool can be moved to the left or righi. [2] To sew on the right hand side of the zipper, move loot over to the right as illustrated and reverse The procedure to sew the left hand side of The zipper. (3] To move the zip slider out of the way. leave needle in the fabric, raise foot and slide it behind the foot lower the foot and continue E nts OVERSEWING EDGES Oversewing edges prevents the fabric from fraying and creates a neat edge Set the machine as illustrated selecting a suitable stitch width and length. (1) When sewing, the needle should just pass over the edge of the fabric. 2) On fabrics that are opt to pucker, use the Nr Bovercasting foot. Noto: On Models 420, 430 and 440, the 3 step zig-zag stitch con also be used, but use the All Purpose foot not the Nr. 8 fool. BLIND HEM STITCH (Not for Model 410) Set the mochine as illustrated fitting the Blind Hem lool. [1] Fold the fabric as illustrated with the "wrong" side facing up words. 12) Place the folded fabric under the foot as shown. (3) Turn the hand wheel towards you by hand, until the needle swings over to the far left. It should then just pierce the fold of the fabric. 41 it does not, then adjust the position of the fabric. Once the correct position of the fabric has been set position the "guide" of the foot (5) up against the fold (3+4) by turning the nut Proceed to sew carefully feeding the fabric to ensure it retains the correct position against the guide. [3] Note: Some practice will be needed to obtain the best results. Always test the stitch first on a spare piece of fabric THREE STEP ZIG-ZAG (Not for Model 410) Set the machine as illustrated filling the Nr. 34|| Purpose foot (1) The three step zig-zag stilch has a wide range of sewing applica tons, such as patching, dorning, repairing lears, mending, sewing on elastic and lace oversewing edges etc on a wide range of fabrics. Fig. 2 shows palching, where the stitches are to the edge of the patch and a tear, where the stüches go firstly over the centre of of the leor and then lo either side but overlapping slightly on the II. The stich length can be reduced until the stitches are very close together. This will give a stronger finish for most repairing Operations F + STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH (Not for Model 410) Set the mochine as illustrated fitting the All Purpose foot. [1] The straight stretch sews two stitches forward and one stitch backwards, thereby giving triple" strength. Use it for siretch fabrics and for areas of "stress" where a strong siilch is required. M TRIPLE ZIG-ZAG (RIC-RAC) STITCH [Not for Model 410) Set the machine as above, (1) but use zig-zag width setting No 5. The triple zig-zag stitch is a very strong zig-zag stitch used for Seaming heavy fabrics such as canvas etc. li can be used to oversew edges where the seam has already been sewn by a straight stitch, or as an attractive decorative stitch. (2B) STRETCH OVERLOCKING AND OVERLOCKING (Not for Models 410 and 4201 Set the machine os illustrated using the Nr. 3 or Nr.B tool. for finer fabrics for thicker fabrics Both these stitches are designed to seam ond overlock the edge ofa fabric in one operation. When the needle is at its extreme right position allow it to just pass over or just pierce the edge of the fabric according to the effect you require. Using the Nr. B foot will prevent puckering of thin fabrics. 2 A HONEYCOMB STITCH AND EMBROIDERY/DECORATIVE STITCHING (For Model 440 only! THE HONEYCOMB STITCH Select the Honeycomb stitch A and fit the All Purpose fool. This stitch can be used for many types of jersey and general woven fabrics. For visible seams ond hems on T-shirts, sweaters, under wear, serviettes, tablecloths and craft work etc. (1) SCALLOP AND DOUBLE-SCALLOP STITCH These stitches have a wide range of decorative and utility applications and are particularly suitable for woven fabrics. 2) The Scallop stitch [B) is ideal foredging collars, cuffs, tablecloths, Serviettes etc. (2) For both the Scallop and Double-Scallapstitch, (C) the stitch length can be reduced beyond the blue setting to achieve a close "satin stitch" if required. With satin stitch use the satin stitch foot No 4 and a paper backing MAINTAINING THE MACHINE NEEDLE PLATE To remove Snap-on needle plate open hook cover and prise of tromthe bottom-from lelicorner - using onon sharp instrument, Retrove bobbin cose. See page 8). CLEANING SHUTTLE HOOK AND FEED DOG Completely clean the area with a brush. Turn the handwheel slowly towards you to make sure every comer has been cleaned. Take particular care to thoroughly remove the dus from around ihe feed dog, [2] FREEING JAMMED THREAD To releuse any thread jömmed in the hook, pull the end of the thread while turning the handwheel back and forth. (3) CLEANING AND OILING SHUTTLE HOOK Clean and oil the hook in the following manner. Turn the hand wheel until the needle bar reaches it's top position. Remove the bobbin case and clean every part with a piece of oily cloth. 4) Use sewing-machine oil, or some other high-quality refined mineral machine oil. DO NOT OVEROIL Your machine should be serviced regularly by your specialist dealer. (CAUTION) When servicing or changing mechanical parts or accessories, the machine must be disconnected from the supply by removing the plug from the socket. Unplug the machine when not in use. TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE CONDITION REMEDY 1. Washine n eden conectly. 2. Tension is too tighi 1. Thread horylar nedle va 1 Needleserled incorrectly 5. Threod may be coughi cree holder 2. Reduce tension on top moller numbers. 1. Uzelorgricedit. 4 FTS Elat videowudback]. 1. Babta in nointed correctly. Lowthread brecks 1. Reprän bobbin Chachty pulling thread pulls 2. Check for correct threading 1 Change labbalansicht orcling in induction 3 Rohtin tension og 1. Nadle is not inserted correcil 2. Nadle is dood. Skipped ziliches 1. Match needlesie la fabric and had chi. 5. Check tool pressure regulot on to proper writing Need-breakoge 1. Nedeni damd. 7 Neleis not inverted correct 1 Fabric loo wong edhe 4. Hal ini pulachycat 5. Wong sewing loolis used. 1. Nadle is not threaded correctly 2. Bobbin is nothicoded correctly 2. Reikai nodle correcillat sich durcd chi 2. Muchee vaherad. fra heghi 1. Do not pullon cloth. Check for proper la pressure 5. Ukolica fool | Thread nadlefront la back 2. Thred babtin at dingle chart, 3. Watch me dle size to thread & lubric vechi Shiching lam laps 1. Footpreure is too heavy 2. Nadie laulu lalil | Reduce feat DusSve smaller numbers 3 Adjud length or properches 1 Thrmada por quality 2. Foot prese is too lighi. 1. Uz ovolity thread! 2 Intera c tiune large numbers regulen sich gleeding 1. Vachine nudo 2 linfond oil residue hart collecied in hook or on 3. K han Dened and up in Do nol pullon tabric Lit teed automatically 1. Cilaccording to medio 1 Ceuf OLE ord hook according to intito le bu und rough # Nedles domugi-d. Fritz Gegout Lid. Bernette B266 Steckbörn, Switzerland Copyright by Fritz Gegauf Lid. Form Nr.0109095001 021120102